Most lawns require from 1” to 1 1/2” of water per week for optimal results, more if it is extremely hot or windy, less if it is cooler. This must come from rain or watering or a combination of both. There are no other “set” rules of watering! Slopes, thatch build up, compaction, soil types and methods of watering are all considerations for determining watering times.
A flat, loamy lawn can get by with one or two deep-long waterings per week, whereas a lawn with little top soil, or clay, or slopes, or having a thick thatch build up, may require several shallow or short waterings. The only way to determine proper watering times is to check for depth of water penetration. This can be done with a soil probe or “separating “ with a shovel. If water is running off or “pooling,” cut back on length of watering and aerate if possible. Longer (or deeper) watering will encourage longer rooting systems, whereas shallow watering encourages roots to stay close to the surface.
Watering during the heat of the day isn’t as efficient due to evaporation, but a quick watering during extreme heat periods can help in cooling off the lawn. Try to avoid watering in evening if possible, to prevent possible disease. Don’t assume that a sprinkler system is adequately watering all areas. Improper pressure, worn heads, and blocked spray patterns are all considerations when playing “detective” with dry spots.
The herbicides we use are actually growth promoters and work by growing weeds to death. Weeds will actually grow fast as the application begins to take effect. The herbicide is translocated to the root system, thereby killing the entire plant. Older, perennial plants may require more than one application to be completely controlled. Weeds not germinated or present at the time of our application will be controlled on the next application. Within two weeks of the application, weeds will definitely be showing signs of the treatment. If weeds don’t appear to be dying after this time frame, call our office and we will check weeds and reapply if necessary.
Normally not. A light rain can actually enhance the mode of action of the herbicide because plants will open their pores during a rain and take in the products better. Rain will not effect the fertilizer. In the event of a hard down pour within a couple of hours of the applications, the herbicide’s effectiveness may be compromised, and we would need to reapply the weed control. In any event, you should wait 10 days to two weeks (longer if weather is cooler), and then check to see if weeds are dying. There is no problem with applying an application to a wet lawn.
Lawns treated on our full program (four or more applications) receive our guarantee of satisfaction. If you aren’t completely satisfied with our services, we will work with you until you are. We cannot guarantee results or complete weed control on fewer than four treatments per season.
Children and pets should stay off the lawn until it has had a chance to dry — usually 20 minutes to an hour. We post a sign on lawns after we apply a treatment and will be glad to call you before your applications so you can make arrangements for your pets.
We recommend that you leave (mulch) the clippings for at least the first two mowings after our applications. After this interval, there is no problem with using grass clippings as mulch.
These can be any number of problems, including poor or lack of soil, insect and disease problems, or other cultural problems.
As a rule of thumb, you should wait until you have mowed the grass (not just weeds!) at least once. By then the grass should be mature enough to use a herbicide on it.
No, the sod should not be replaced around the tree after planting.
Turf grass should be left longer in the summer and in heavy use areas. It can be shorter in the spring and fall. For bluegrass, 1 1/2 – 2” in spring and fall and 2 1/2 – 3” in summer is about right. Longer in summer will increase drought resistance and shade the soil, keeping soil temperatures lower. This will inhibit weed seed germination. Also, it is recommended that grass be mowed often enough to allow leaving the grass clippings (grass cycling). Properly mulched mowings will not contribute to thatch build up.
The last mowing before winter should be relatively short. This will speed soil warm-up in the spring and reduce matting. About 2” would be right.
On rotary mowers, about once a month would be about right. Dull mower blades tear the grass off instead of cutting it. This injury is very critical in the summer.
Scalping is cutting the grass plant so short that most of the green is removed and only the brown woody stalk remains. Unless watered, this condition could kill the plant, especially in hot weather.
Anytime, except during extremely hot periods when the lawn can be stressed.
Usually the recommendation is once a year, with twice being the rule on new lawns or ones with a high clay soil content.
Thatch is a layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots that develops between the soil and the zone of green vegetation. Thatch is considered beneficial at around 1/2" providing a mulch blanket that helps regulate soil temperatures, as well as, providing cushioning that helps to prevent damage done by foot traffic. Thatch level around an inch or more are considered negative to a lawn:
- Thick thatch layers absorb large amounts of water and does not allow water to reach the root zone therefore increasing needed irrigation.
- Grass roots tend to grow in thatch and during periods of drought the grass plant experience enhanced drought stress when the thatch dries out.
- Thatchy lawns during periods of excess moisture hold too much water which starves the lawns root system of oxygen.
- Thatchy lawns create a favorable environment for turf pest and diseases to flourish.
- Thatch can bind some fungicides and pesticides which reduces their effectiveness and prevents them from getting into the soil where they work.
- Thatchy lawns increase incidents of scalping by allow the mower to sink into the thatch layer which effectively lowers the height of cut increasing damage to your lawn.
Yes, as Helena’s largest pest control provider – we can manage every type of pest inside or outside of your home or business. Our exterminators do nothing but pest control, and we have 30+yrs experience handling all types of pest issues in Helena. We provide pest control service for the hospital, the State Capitol buildings, Fort Harrison, and many apartment complexes to control spiders, ants, wasps, box elder bugs, millipedes, mice, voles, gophers etc.
Not at all! When you order service from us, there is no obligation to continue, and we won’t automatically schedule you for future treatments unless you ask us to. We are Helena’s preferred pest control provider because our treatments are more effective and we don’t pressure you into unnecessary treatments.
We only use products that the E.P.A. (environmental protection agency) have studied and approved for use inside and around homes. The most typical precaution for you and your family is to not contact sprayed surfaces until they have dried, this usually takes about 1 or 2 hours. If the treatment requires additional precautions, we will notify you of what to do. As applicators, we are exposed to these products daily as they are sprayed, so using the least toxic product is also in our best interest. After 30yrs of spraying, we are confident in our ability to select products that are both effective and low risk.
Your Cooperation is Essential
Bed bug treatments are different than a normal pest control treatment for spiders and other creeping & crawling insects. Pesticides alone will not eliminate a bed bug problem. Your cooperation in these matters is essential for a successful treatment and proper control. Effective treatment requires 100% control. A single pregnant female bed bug can start the problem all over again. Treatment won’t be done until the technician is satisfied all cleaning has been done. Complete elimination of bed bugs is not guaranteed or implied. Your exposure to bed bugs outside your home and the cleanliness of your home are major factors in bed bug control. You must follow the instructions below very carefully and perform each requirement in the stated order, as well as any other instruction the technician may give.
You Will Need
- Contractor Grade trash bags with ties
- Access to a washer & dryer (high heat)
- Vacuum cleaner with disposable bags (strong suction)
- Zippered mattress and pillow encasements
- Labels to tie onto Bags
Complete These Steps on the Extermination Day
- Collect all fabric items That Can Be Washed And Dried With High Heat And place them in HEavy Duty Black plastic bags. Collect and remove all washable fabric items (pillows, sheets, blankets, clothing, rugs, curtains, towels) from all rooms (closets, bedrooms living room, bathrooms and kitchen). Seal and label these bags “DIRTY LAUNDRY.”
- Wash & dry these items on hot and place them in new unused plastic bags and seal. LABEL These, “CLEAN LAUNDRY”. Wash all items in hot water in a washing machine. Seal and throw away the empty plastic bags. Dry all items on the highest heat setting in the dryer. 2 Cycles works best. Place the clean items in a new, unused plastic bag, then seal and Label them, “CLEAN LAUNDRY”. Do not bring clean bags of items back into the home until after the extermination has been done. Keep bags sealed or off site until a follow up treatment has determined there are no more Bed Bugs.
- REMOVE ALL CLUTTER, trash, BOXES, bags, Furnature, etc. that Can be Thrown Away.
- Any ITEMS that Won’t be Laundered or Thrown Out Must be placed in Contractor Grade Plastic Bags and Left OPen. This includes: Books, Knicknacks, Alarm Clocks, Shoes, etc.
- Our Technician Will Treat these Bags With A Pesticide, AND SEAL THEM. They Must Remain Sealed For 14 Days. AFTER 14 DAYS, THROW AWAY THE BAG AND PESTICIDE STRIP. Items That Are too LArge May Need to BE Thrown Away, or remain In the Home To Be treated.
- VACUUM ALL SURFACES. Use a strong suction vacuum on all furniture, mattresses, floors, walls, crevices, heating units, baseboards, picture frames, etc. It can’t be emphasized enough, clean every nook and cranny!
- DISPOSE OF THE VACUUM BAG. Immediately place vacuum bag in trash bag. Seal and throw away in a waste container outside of the building.
- STEAM CLEAN RUGS, CARPETS, UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE & MATTRESSES. Use steam extraction. Severe infestations may warrant replacement of mattresses and upholstered furniture.
- DESTROY & THROW AWAY INFESTED ITEMS AND FURNITURE YOU ARE WILLING TO DISPOSE OF. Prevent re-use. When you throw furniture away, use spray paint and paint “BED BUGS” on it and/or slash it with a box cutter or break it apart. Wrap it in plastic and paint “BED BUGS” on the plastic so that no one will pick it up off the street.
- SEAL MATTRESSES AND PILLOWS IN ENCASEMENTS. Completely seal mattress and pillows in a zippered encasement rated to keep Bed Bugs out. Keep sealed for at least one year.
- HAVE OUR PROFESSIONAL EXTERMINATOR TREAT THE HOME AND FURNITURE. YOU MUST LEAVE DURING THIS TIME. Be sure that you are not bringing any Bed Bugs or Bed Bug eggs with you on your return. Eggs can be on your person or belongings, so when you leave, be sure you have a means to shower and get into clean clothes, and seal up or throw out your dirty laundry.
- DO NOT VACUUM, FLOORS FOR THREE WEEKS, OR OPEN TREATED BAGS FOR 10 DAYS! Do not bring anything into your home that may have Bed Bugs or Bed Bug Eggs on it! BED BUG CONTROL CAN TAKE UP TO THREE WEEKS AS EGGS HATCH AND NEW BUGS APPEAR. IF YOU SEE A BED BUG 3 WEEKS AFTER THE INITIAL TREATMENT, USE A PIECE OF SCOTCH TAPE TO CAPTURE IT, AND BRING IT TO US OR THE PROPERTY MANAGER FOR I.D.
- FOLLOW UP TREATMENT, AND OCCUPANT COOPERATION IS ABSOLUTELY NECCESARY TO ACHIEVE EFFECTIVE CONTROL.